Walking the Kokoda Track

The Kokoda Track campaign was part of the Pacific War in World War II. In 1942, Japanese forces invaded the Australian Territory of Papua, now part of Papua New Guinea, seeking to advance over the Owen Stanley Range and capture Port Moresby. Their goal was to gain a foothold in the region and isolate Australia from the United States. The Kokoda Campaign holds great significance in Australia’s history, as it was one of the few occasions in which Australian soldiers led the defence of Australian territory against an invading force.

In the July holidays this year, nine boys, nine parents, and two masters flew to Papua New Guinea to walk the Kokoda Track. Starting at Owers’ Corner at the southern end of the track, the 96-kilometre journey took the group through rugged mountain ranges, dense jungle, local villages, and sites of great historical significance.

Our guide, Gary, and the team of local porters played a huge role in making the trip such an unforgettable experience. An avid historian, Gary was completing the track for the 23rd time. The porters, all from villages along the track, possessed an intimate knowledge of the terrain and were able to immediately assess our abilities, offering support and guidance whenever it was needed. At every tricky section, the hand of our porter would appear to help us get through it. Even when we thought we had carefully navigated a river on our own, stepping cautiously from rock to rock, what we often failed to notice was our porter just behind us, holding the handle of our pack (or as Gary called it, the “idiot handle”), to steady our balance and ensure we stayed out of the river.

As we retraced the steps of the Australian diggers, Gary brought the campaign to life through his detailed knowledge of both the broader course of the war and the personal stories of the soldiers who fought along the track. The difficulty of the journey cannot be overstated. Even with modern hiking equipment and the support of experienced porters, the relentless climbs and descents, and oppressive humidity, made each day physically demanding. To imagine young soldiers covering the same ground in military boots, carrying weapons, ammunition, and supplies, all while under the constant threat of enemy attack, was a truly humbling experience. More than eighty years later, the track still carries reminders of the campaign. Communication wires thread through the jungle canopy, weapon pits line the sides of steep ridges, and rusting fragments of military equipment serve as a constant reminder of the fighting that took place there.

Of course, the story of the Kokoda campaign can’t be fully told without detailing the contribution made by the Papuans. Thousands of local men served as carriers, guiding troops through the jungle, transporting vital supplies to the front line, and carrying wounded soldiers to safety. They became known as the “Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels”, a nickname still worn with pride today. It was particularly moving to be supported by the descendants of those who had guided, supplied, and cared for Australian soldiers along the same track more than eighty years earlier.

The Papuans are a resilient people. Although many possess little in material terms, they displayed a remarkable generosity, constantly placing our needs ahead of their own. On several occasions, they came together to sing for us, providing a memorable insight into their culture and sense of community. They were never short of energy, seizing any opportunity to play a game of touch footy, even after a long day of carrying heavy loads and looking after us. Incredibly fast and agile, they left us in no doubt that the future of rugby league in Papua New Guinea is bright. Watching a porter casually bound down a four-metre cliff to retrieve a football left the rest of us reflecting that, had we tried the same thing, we would probably have needed to be airlifted out.

Completing the Kokoda Track is a demanding, yet deeply rewarding experience. While known for its historical significance, it also provides a rare opportunity to experience the landscape and culture of a neighbouring country that is so close to Australia, yet so different from it. Combined with the generosity and resilience of the Papuan people, these experiences make Kokoda far more than a trek through an historic battlefield. This is a journey that leaves a lasting impression long after the final day on the track.